New Shinko 705 on the left and Kenda K761 with 6,000+Kms on the right

Setting the stage: After putting 6,500 kms on my Kenda K761 Dual-Sport rear tire, I had worn through the tread and it was time for a change. So I was off to the forums looking for reviews on KLR650 rear tires.  Time and time again the Shinko 705 (130/80/17) Dual-Sport rear tire was mentioned and I had to try it for myself.  Admittedly, the Shinko 705 rear tire has had its share of negative reviews but it also had a great number of glowing reviews, and I figured at $65 I’d take to the time to form my own opinion.

Here’s a little about the Shinko 705 Dual-Sport tires:

Performance Review: I now have just over 2,000 kms on my Shinko 705 rear tire and I love it!  I’m still a fan of the K761 but the Shinko 705 outperforms it in all categories.  I’ve used the tire at highway speeds, on my daily commute, on gravel roads, rainy/wet conditions (lots of rain!) and here are my observations:

The Good Stuff:

• The day I installed the 705 rear tire it rained and rained and rained.  I was stressed about riding a new tire in the rain but it performed remarkably well in wet condition.  In fact, far better than the Kenda or Dunlop ever did.
• The Shinko 705 is surprisingly  stable in all conditions. As with any dual-sport tire there will be compromises but I don’t feel that the 705 suffers in any condition.  Whether riding on the street, highway, dirt road, trail in wet or dry conditions I’m 100% confident in the 705.
• After 2,000 kms the treads still look like new.  I’m hoping these will last more than 6,000 kms.
• Great bang for the buck.  At $65 plus taxes and shipping for the rear tire you can’t go wrong.

The Bad Stuff:

• I have nothing bad to say.

Notes:

• Picked them up from aviciouscycle.ca. Best price, great service and they had them in stock.
• I’ve been running them at 32 psi since day one and haven’t felt like making any changes.
• Disclaimer: I haven’t tried the Shinko in the mud so I can’t speak to that.
• I will definitely buy this tire again.

With its great price point, surprising stability and it’s ability to perform well in all conditions, I’m comfortable giving the Shinko 705 rear tire a 5 star rating and my recommendation as replacement tires for all KLR650 riders.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions and stay obsessed.

2008 KLR650 Cee Bailey's Adjustable Windshield Touring Addition

The Issue: All KLR 650 riders know that the wind buffeting can be frustrating, fatiguing and annoying on those long commutes and road trips. I’ve tried several solutions like the Laminar Lip, the Afrika Single tall windshield and the dash modification from KLRDash.com. The Afrika Single windshield in combination with the KLRDash has worked great for me but when I got a look at the adjustable touring windshield for the 2008+ KLR650 from Cee Bailey’s, I had to give it a try.

Solution: Standing at 6’1″ with a 33″ inseam I decided to go with the 24″ adjustable touring shield in light gray. Like many of you out there, I couldn’t decide between Cee Bailey’s 23″ or 24″ options. Airing on the side of caution I ultimately decided to go with the 24″ because I was most concerned with eliminating the buffeting and figured taller was better. Keep in mind Cee Bailey’s offers a 20″ sport deflector windshield that attaches to the adjustable unit but I haven’t yet had a chance to review it as of yet. Stay tuned.

2008 KLR650 Cee Bailey's Adjustable Windshield Touring Addition

Setting the Stage: This Adjustable windshield includes the 24″ windshield and mounting brackets with four position adjustable swing arms. The entire assembly mounts directly to the KLR’s stock fairing, no new holes are required. The adjustable bracket and windshield assembly is very well engineered, incredibly easy to install and looks fantastic on my 2008 KLR650. I really mean it, it looks good! What’s most notable about this windshield is that the base and brackets are stable and wide set. The brackets and shield are 6″ wider at the base than stock shield, providing greater

stability and increased wind protection for your torso. I’ve noticed a substantial reduction of wind hitting my body and in vibrations from both the shield and fairing.

2008 KLR650 Cee Bailey's Adjustable Windshield Sport Deflector

Review of the Cee Bailey’s Adjustable Touring Windshield for the 2008+ KLR650: Firstly, the Cee Bailey’s Adjustable Touring shield is intended for highway and commuter travel.  I say this because some may not like the look of the tall windshields on the KLR 650 but I’m more concerned with my comfort and this shield fulfills its purpose remarkably well.   So far I’ve ridden over 500 km with this shield and I’ve spent time on freeways, highways, city streets and dirt roads and I’ve also taken the opportunity to try all four of the adjustable settings.   This windshield set-up is awesome.  I like it better than the shield I had previously reviewed.  The third and fourth settings work best for me.  At this angle the wind is deflected over my helmet creating a calm pocket of air for my comfort and my riding enjoyment.  The windshield is incredibly stable and provides comfort at all speeds.  I can travel at highway speeds with my visor raised without disturbing my eyesight.  The angle of the adjustable windshield also provides you with plenty of room when standing on the foot pegs.  I feel that the Cee Bailey’s Adjustable Touring Windshield is a “must have” for any KLR 650 rider doing any type of long trip or commute.  Eliminating the buffeting and reducing the fatigue makes the ride much more enjoyable.  It’s worth every penny.

Notes:

1. I have nothing bad to say nor have I noticed any drawbacks to the windshield.
2. Installation was simple and took me approximately 30 mins to complete.  That doesn’t include the 10 mins I spent looking for a washer that fell under my work bench.
3. The Cee Bailey’s shield is 6″ wider then my other tall windshield at the bottom and 2″ wider at the top.  This adds up to better wind protection.
4. I’m going to order the 20″ Sport Deflector shield and provide you with an update.
5. Thank you to Cee bailey’s for putting together a great product for the KLR 650.

Please feel free contact me if you have any questions.

16 tooth front sprocket KLR650

Issue: Work has me on the road a lot lately and most of that time is on the highways and as KLR650 riders know, our bikes weren’t made for comfort at highway speeds.  That meant I had to find a way to reduce vibration and all research pointed to changing the front sprocket on the KLR650 from a 15 tooth to 16 tooth.  Here are my step-by-step instructions and observations since making the change.

Instructions: (see video for walkthrough)

Firstly you’ll need the following tools:

• 16 tooth front sprocket for the 2008 KLR650 (here’s where I bought mine: http://www.aviciouscycle.ca/)
• 10mm socket to remove the chain/sprocket cover
• 27mm socket to remove the sprocket
• Large socket wrench (torque wrench would be ideal)

Let’s get to it:

1. Use the 10mm socket to remove the three bolts that secure the chain/sprocket cover.
2. Use the 27mm socket and torque wrench to remove the nut that secures the 15 tooth sprocket to the KLR.  The nut is a regular thread, turn counter clockwise to remove.  Note: Remove the 27mm nut can be difficult and if you’re not careful your KLR can lurch forward and drop off the stand.  To avoid this, I sat on my KLR with my right foot on the rear break and my left foot on the ground, then (with the rear brake applied) I pulled up on the torque wrench until I heard a snap and the nut released.
3. Once the nut and washer have been removed simply remove the 15 tooth sprocket and insert the 16 tooth sprocket.
4. Simply reverse the process to complete the install.

*Make sure to double-check your chain tension with the 16 tooth sprocket in place.  I noticed that there was far too much tension on my chain and had to complete a chain adjustment as well (click for details).  Not including the chain adjustment, changing the the 16 tooth sprocket took me approximately 20 minutes.  Now that I know how to do it, I’m sure that I could complete the task in 10 to 15 minutes.

Results: Here’s what I’ve noticed since installing the 16 tooth front sprocket on my 2008 KLR650:

• There has been a reduction of 400 to 500RPMs at speeds over 100KPH, resulting in reduced vibrations and the associated fatigue.
• I had to trade acceleration for the reduced vibration.  The KLR was never that quick off the line anyway.  It’s not that noticeable or inconvenient.
• Some have claimed it has improved gas mileage but I haven’t noticed a major improvement.
• The 16 tooth is not great if you’re going to be doing a lot of off-road riding.  Now that I have the chain adjusted properly I think I could switch sprockets in 10 to 15 minutes if I know I’ll be spending most of the day in the dirt.

How to lower the seat on your KLR650

Issue: During a long road trip on my KLR650 my butt went numb after a few days of riding and I stopped at an automotive store to pick up a gel seat as a temporary solution.  I found a gel seat meant for a car and quickly modified it to strap on to my 2008 KLR650.  As it turns out I really like the gel seat and want to keep it as a permanent solution for the KLR’s butt-numbing rides.  Here’s the issue – with the gel seat on top of the stock seat I’m now sitting too high on the bike.

Solution: While installing my new K&N air filter for the KLR650, I removed the seat, looked underneath and the idea just hit me. Why don’t I remove the upholstery, shave down the foam inside the KLR’s seat to lower myself back to the stock height?  So I gave it a try and it worked!  Here are the instructions and how I did it.

Instructions: (see video below)

1. Remove the KLR’s seat
2. Using a small screwdriver, remove the staples from the upholstery.  I went about half-way down the seat but you can take the entire seat apart if you choose.
3. Peel back the upholstery and carefully remove the plastic that’s between the foam and upholstery.  You’ll need to use the plastic again so be careful not to damage it.
4. Mark the area and depth you want to remove.
5. Using a serrated blade, slowly cut through the foam and be careful not to tear it.  This was very much like filleting a fish.
6. Once you have the cut to the desired depth and remove the excess foam (I removed approx 2″) you should try the seat on your KLR to make sure you got the height right.
7. Reinstall the plastic using tuck tape to re-seal the edges and patch any other holes.
8. With someone’s help, hold the upholstery in place and use a regular staple gun to secure it in place.
9. Put the seat pack on your KLR and you’re done.

Results: This worked out great for me but I wouldn’t recommend doing this mod unless you have a gel seat or Air Hawk to place on top of you KLR’s lowered stock seat.  I now have the comfort of the gel seat and I’m sitting slightly lower on the bike which reduces buffeting at speed and makes it easier to reach the ground while stopped.  Lucky my idea worked because the was no turning back!

Stay obsessed!

The specifications on chain slack measurement detailed on the swing arm of my 2008 KLR650 lists the range as 35-45mm from at the midpoint of the the swing arm.  The midpoint is determined by measuring from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the rear sprocket with the bike on its side stand.  Based on what I’ve observed and read on other blogs, I believe that the suggested range should be in the 45-55mm range.

Instructions: (see video below)

1. Measure to determine the midpoint on the swing arm and mark it with a Sharpie.
2. With a 12mm wrench I began to adjust the dog bone bolts that are located just in front of the rear axle.
3. Keep track of how many time you turn those bolts and make sure its even on both sides.  I lost track and one point and had to rely on the alignment marks and string method to ensure the rear tire is aligned.
4. After adjusting the the dog bones I loosened the rear axle and slid it forward to rest up against the adjusters.
5. Repeat the procedure above until you achieve the desired slack.  I choose to go with 45mm (with the 16 tooth sprocket installed) as I will be changing between the 15 tooth and 16 tooth sprockets and don’t want to constantly adjust the chain tension as well.
6. Make sure to tighten the dog bones and torque the rear axle.
7. Clean and grease your chain while you’re at it.

Note: Make sure to check you chain tension periodically as the slack can change over time with the wear of the sprockets and chain.  If the chain is too loose you run the risk of it jumping off the rear sprocket.  If it’s too tight you run the risk of prematurely wearing the shaft, chain, seal and sprockets.  I’ve had my chain on for over 12K on my KLR and it is still in great shape.

Issue:

Installation: (video review below)

1. You’ll need to remove the rear side panel on the right hand side of your KLR.
2. Unscrew and remove the cover from the air box.
3. Remover the existing air filter and examine the filter and air box for dirt etc… Always good to know if you’re collecting dust/particles or not.
4. Clean the air box.
5. Use a knife to remove the small tab on the K&N filter, it’s not needed for the KLR650
6. Use the sealing grease provide with the K&N KA-6589 air filter to create a seal around the base of the filter.
7. Place the air filter in the air box then install the filter’s top plate and re-secure the wing-nut. *Do not over tighten the wing-nut, snug is all you need.*
8. Reinstall the air box cover and the rear panel.  You’re back in business.

Notes: Installation was easy and took only minutes, not much more to say.  I haven’t noticed a change in performance or gas mileage at this point but I will update you if I do.  I’ll continue to use the K&N KA-6589 for now but I’ll be switching back to the foam/oil filter prior to my next off road trip.

KLR650 raising links installation and review

The Issue: With my KLR650 fully loaded and ready for the next adventure the bike’s suspension had a considerable sag and it was bottoming out on some of the large bumps.  The stock suspension works fine for me when the KLR is void of luggage as I weigh in at 170lbs.  The problem was that I was heading out on a five day trip and I added my weight to the weight of my ammo box panniers and my camping gear, tool kit, food, clothing etc… my weight was near the 250lbs range.  The KLR650 bottoming out on dirt roads now made sense.  Replacing the stock suspension was not an option due to the price so I was off to the forums to find a solution.

The Solution: (part 1)  The first thing I tried was the 1 inch raising links for the 2008 KLR650.   The 1 inch raising links for the KLR650 is designed for riders that are over 250lbs.  The links raise the bike by an extra inch but they do not eliminate any of the sag.  They did change the handling characteristics of the KLR but the raising links did their job with respect to ground clearance, ride height and the sagging suspension (when fully loaded with gear).  I’m completely satisfied with the upgrade but had to adjust a few things in my day to day riding.  Weighing in at 170lbs and the upgrade is rated for 250lbs my KLR’s handling changed significantly when in commuter mode.  My KLR was a little stiff and the steering was a little twitchy because the rear end was raised and more weight was distributed towards the from the KLR (that was my theory).  I now leave my 40mm Ammo Can Panniers, my rain gear, first aid kit and tools on my KLR650 to help distribute the weight more evenly and it seems to have helped.

Installation: Installing the raising links on the KLR650 was simple.  You’ll need a ratchet set, torque wrench and jack or lift for your bike.  Once the KLR’s rear wheel is off the ground, remove the stock links from the rear suspension, place the new links in place and tighten them (check your KLR’s manual for exact specifications).  In total the 1 inch raising link mod took approximately 15 minutes to complete.  I recommend the raising links to anyone that is in my situation.  I found the links online for $40 and have been extremely happy with the results.

Note: Shortly after my trip, while playing in the dirt, I blew the rear shock on my 2008 KLR650.  Thankfully Kawasaki covered it under warranty and shipped me a replacement.  While installing the replacement shock I upgraded the rear spring to the 7.4kg Top Gun KLR650 Rear Shock Spring.  I’ll update you as soon as possible but so far so good.

Keep obsessing my friends.

Kappa K35N Top Case On The KLR650

I’d been looking for an inexpensive top case for my 2008 KLR650 that met the following criteria:

1. Must accommodate my Zeus ZS 2100B Dual Sport helmet with room for a few other things.

2. Must have a locking mechanism.

3. Must be waterproof.

4. Quick release or easily removable would be nice.

I explored a few ideas that I had found on the forums and blogs but didn’t find anything that I was 100% happy with.

The Solution: While visiting on of the local shops I noticed a Kappa K35N on display.  It met all my requirements and even though it was a little more than I wanted to spend, at $130 figured I’d give it a try.  I’m happy with my purchase and here’s my review:

Installation was a snap!  It comes with a universal mounting kit that secures to the KLR650′s factory rack, all the parts needed for installation and installation instructions. (see the video for the walkthrough)

The Kappa K35N’s mounting kit also serves as a quick release for the top case.  The case can be installed or removed for the KLR within seconds.  This is very useful wether your unpacking the bike while camping or bringing your valuables in for the night.

The lock is easy to use and secures both the top case and the quick release.

There’s a rubber gasket in the lid that seals the Kappa top case once the locking mechanism is in place.

My helmet fits perfectly in the top case and even leaves room for my gloves and a few other items.

The Kappa K35N top box is light and adds very little weight to the KLR650.

Kappa K35N Top Case On The KLR650

The verdict:  I’m very happy with my decision to add the Kappa K35N top case to my 2008 KLR650. I recommend it to anyone looking for a little extra storage that both locks and is easily removable.

Setting the Stage:

Solution: I followed the post’s instructions to a tee and didn’t run into any problems at all.  Here’s a list of the items you’ll need to complete the project and I’ve included a sound bite to help motivate you. (The sound bite doesn’t do it justice)

1. 2008-2010 KRL650
2. Drill (1/2 inch)
3. 2 1/8 inch holesaw
4. Small amount of oil (cutting oil is preferred)
5. Wooden dowel to fit inside the KLR’s stock tweeter
6. New end cap and spark arrestor. I went with these ones and they worked well.http://hmfracing.com/shop/parts/end-caps/turn-down
   

   HMF Racing Turn Down End Cap

7. Blanket to shield the bike while drilling

Instructions: These instructions were borrowed from the post mentioned above.  Thank you the original author.

• I strapped the bike upright just to make it easier to work on.
• I covered the rear wheel/swingarm with a shop blanket to keep metal shavings off of everything.
• I drove a wooden dowel into the exhaust so my holesaw’s pilot bit would have a center point. I had a dowel slightly smaller than the opening, so I used Channelocks to crimp the pipe over the dowel.
• Using a 1/2″ drill with a 2 1/8″ holesaw, I drilled out the end. I have read that many people have burned up numerous holesaws trying this. The trick is to drill slowly with constant pressure on the holesaw. Squirt some cutting oil (if you don’t have cutting oil, ANY kind of oil is better than none at all) on the teeth periodically. This helps keep the holesaw cooler, and actually makes cleanup easier afterwards. If you use the holesaw with your drill running wide open, you will burn up the holesaw. A holesaw with 1/4″ pilot bit will run you about $15 at any hardware store.
• When you are finished drilling, the factory spark arrestor will slide right out. There is no beating or banging involved. I actually lucked out by using the 2 1/8″ holesaw. It is the perfect size to drill out the spark arrestor. Any smaller, and I would have drilled into the arrestor itself.
• Finally, I measured, drilled the wholes and installed the HMF end cap and spark arrester

Notes:

1. The sound is certainly deeper but not too loud.  A noticeable improvement from the stock KLR650 sound.
2. I’m not sure if I’m reading too far into it but I feel a slight increase in power/torque at low speed and the acceleration has definitely improved.
3. I did not modify the stock jetting and I don’t think I need to.  I have had a few backfire like sounds while downshift but it’s tolerable give the effects on sound and performance.

Conclusion:

I recommend you try this KLR650 low buck exhaust mod prior to installing an aftermarket exhaust.  I think you’ll like it! It took me longer to read the posts than it did to complete the mod to my KLR.

Total cost was approximately $70, including the holesaw, end cap and arrestor.  It’s definitely worth the time and money.

Stay obsessed my friends.

Eagle Mike Fork Brace KLR650

Issue: The stock forks on the KLR650 are both vertically and horizontally soft and susceptible to vibration and torsion.  The KLR’s front forks can flex and wobble quite a bit under braking, cornering, off-road and at high speeds.  Fixing this was goal #1.  Goal #2 was finding a way to lower the front fender on my 2008 KLR650 (see KLR650 Lowered Front Fender Modification for details).

Eagle Mike fork brace with lowered front fender-KLR650

Solution: I think every KLR forum, blog and review I read recommended using theEagle Mike Fork Brace for the 650.  Even Mike himself was a huge help, he seems to be active on every forum.  The best deal for us Canadian riders seemed to be from www.aviciouscycle.ca and as usual the order process was seamless.  The Eagle Mike Fork Brace was easily installed on my KLR and took only 5 minutes to complete (prior to the lowered fender mod).  The improved performance of the front suspension was remarkable, the flex and wobbling is almost non-existent.  It has reduced both low and high speed wobble and has improved the KLR’s cornering ability.  This is a must have for any KLR.  It completely changed the feel of the 650 and firmed up the the handling.


Note:

- Shortly after the installation of the Eagle Mike Fork Brace on my KLR I also installed the Progressive Suspension Fork Spring as well.  The combination is unbelievable!  I highly recommend these two modifications. (I’ll post the link as to the review as soon as it’s available.)

- It seems that a few 2008+ KLR650 owners were having issues with bindding at the top of the brace but I didn’t or couldn’t re-create that issue on my bike.

- The Eagle Mike Fork Brace gets two thumbs up from me and I highly recommend moving it near the top of your KLR bucket list.

Keep obsessing.