Setting the Stage: Upgrading the exhaust on my 2008 KLR650 was on the long list of things I wanted to try on my KLR. I’m not a big fan of the stock tweeter and I wanted something with a deeper sound (but not too loud). The issue was with my budget constraints, as I’d been trying a few too many things on my KLR and the costs were starting to mount and I didn’t see myself spending $400-$500 for a slip-on exhaust. I found this post on KLR650.net and figured I’d give it a shot on the 2008 model. http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49940
Solution: I followed the post’s instructions to a tee and didn’t run into any problems at all. Here’s a list of the items you’ll need to complete the project and I’ve included a sound bite to help motivate you. (The sound bite doesn’t do it justice)
- 2008-2010 KRL650
- Drill (1/2 inch)
- 2 1/8 inch holesaw
- Small amount of oil (cutting oil is preferred)
- Wooden dowel to fit inside the KLR’s stock tweeter
- New end cap and spark arrestor. I went with these ones and they worked well.http://hmfracing.com/shop/parts/end-caps/turn-down
HMF Racing Turn Down End Cap
- Blanket to shield the bike while drilling
Instructions: These instructions were borrowed from the post mentioned above. Thank you the original author.
- I strapped the bike upright just to make it easier to work on.
- I covered the rear wheel/swingarm with a shop blanket to keep metal shavings off of everything.
- I drove a wooden dowel into the exhaust so my holesaw’s pilot bit would have a center point. I had a dowel slightly smaller than the opening, so I used Channelocks to crimp the pipe over the dowel.
- Using a 1/2″ drill with a 2 1/8″ holesaw, I drilled out the end. I have read that many people have burned up numerous holesaws trying this. The trick is to drill slowly with constant pressure on the holesaw. Squirt some cutting oil (if you don’t have cutting oil, ANY kind of oil is better than none at all) on the teeth periodically. This helps keep the holesaw cooler, and actually makes cleanup easier afterwards. If you use the holesaw with your drill running wide open, you will burn up the holesaw. A holesaw with 1/4″ pilot bit will run you about $15 at any hardware store.
- When you are finished drilling, the factory spark arrestor will slide right out. There is no beating or banging involved. I actually lucked out by using the 2 1/8″ holesaw. It is the perfect size to drill out the spark arrestor. Any smaller, and I would have drilled into the arrestor itself.
- Finally, I measured, drilled the wholes and installed the HMF end cap and spark arrester
Notes:
- The sound is certainly deeper but not too loud. A noticeable improvement from the stock KLR650 sound.
- I’m not sure if I’m reading too far into it but I feel a slight increase in power/torque at low speed and the acceleration has definitely improved.
- I did not modify the stock jetting and I don’t think I need to. I have had a few backfire like sounds while downshift but it’s tolerable give the effects on sound and performance.
Conclusion:
I recommend you try this KLR650 low buck exhaust mod prior to installing an aftermarket exhaust. I think you’ll like it! It took me longer to read the posts than it did to complete the mod to my KLR.
Total cost was approximately $70, including the holesaw, end cap and arrestor. It’s definitely worth the time and money.
Stay obsessed my friends.
